Stoccafisso alla Ghiotta: A Traditional Italian Delight

Introduction

Lo stoccafisso alla ghiotta, also known as pescestocco a ghiotta, is a traditional dish, a simple yet flavorful main course deeply rooted in Italian culinary heritage. This recipe, particularly popular in Sicily and Messina, combines humble ingredients into an exceptional mix of flavors, perfect for family lunches and dinners. This article explores the origins, variations, and preparation of this classic dish, offering insights for both novice and experienced cooks.

Origins and History

The use of stoccafisso (stockfish) in Italian cuisine dates back centuries. Stockfish, which is cod that has been air-dried, has a long shelf life, making it ideal for storage and trade. It is believed to have arrived in Italy around 1450 through Venetian merchants. In Liguria, its popularity grew around 1600 due to trade with the Portuguese. The Catholic tradition of observing "lean days," during which meat consumption was prohibited, further contributed to the widespread use of stockfish, as it was an affordable and easily preserved alternative.

Stoccafisso in Liguria

Liguria has included stoccafisso in its list of traditional agricultural products. One of the most well-known dishes is "stoccafisso alla badalucchese," from the town of Badalucco, prepared with walnuts, hazelnuts, olives, and dried mushrooms. Another popular dish is brandacujun, a Riviera di Ponente specialty made with potatoes, stoccafisso, and plenty of extra virgin olive oil. In Genoa, two traditional recipes stand out.

Key Ingredients and Variations

The beauty of stoccafisso alla ghiotta lies in its simple yet flavorful ingredients. The dish typically includes:

• Stoccafisso (Stockfish): The star of the dish, requiring proper soaking and preparation.
• Potatoes: Adding heartiness and texture to the stew.
• Tomatoes: Providing a rich and vibrant sauce base, often using both fresh tomatoes and tomato paste.
• Onions: Forming the aromatic foundation of the dish.
• Celery: Contributing a fresh, herbaceous note.
• Olives: Adding a briny and Mediterranean flavor.
• Capers: Enhancing the dish with a tangy and salty kick.
• Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Essential for sautéing and bringing all the flavors together.
• Seasonings: Typically including salt, pepper, and sometimes chili flakes for a touch of heat.

Regional Variations

Several regional variations of stoccafisso alla ghiotta exist, each with its unique twist:

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• Stocco alla Ghiotta (Sicilian Style): This version often includes a generous amount of tomato sauce and is considered a "tutto pasto" (all-in-one meal), especially during the Christmas season in Messina.
• Stocco alla Messinese con Pere Spinelle: A variation originating from the Etna area of eastern Sicily, featuring the addition of Spinelle pears.
• Pescestocco a Ghiotta in Bianco: A "white" version that omits tomato sauce and tomato paste.

Preparing Stoccafisso: A Crucial Step

Before cooking, the stoccafisso requires a crucial preparation step: soaking. This process rehydrates the dried fish and removes excess salt. Here's a general guide:

1. Washing: Rinse the dried fish thoroughly under cold running water.
2. Soaking: Place the stoccafisso in a large container filled with cold water. Ensure the fish is fully submerged.
3. Refrigeration: Store the container in the refrigerator to prevent bacterial growth.
4. Water Changes: Change the water every 8-12 hours for at least three days, or until the fish has softened and reached the desired level of saltiness. The soaking time may vary depending on the thickness and salt content of the fish.
5. Cleaning: After soaking, remove the skin and bones from the stoccafisso.

Traditional Recipes

Stoccafisso alla Ghiotta (Sicilian Recipe)

This recipe showcases the classic Sicilian way of preparing stoccafisso alla ghiotta.

Ingredients:

• Stoccafisso (soaked and cleaned)
• Potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
• Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped, or tomato passata
• Onions, chopped
• Celery stalks, chopped
• Capers, rinsed
• Olives, pitted and sliced
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• Optional: Tomato paste, chili flakes, fresh parsley

Instructions:

1. Sauté Aromatics: In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onions and cook until softened and golden. Add the celery and cook for another 5-8 minutes.
2. Add Flavors: Stir in the capers, olives, and tomato paste (if using). Cook for a couple of minutes.
3. Simmer the Sauce: Add the chopped tomatoes or tomato passata. Season with salt, pepper, and chili flakes (if using). Bring to a simmer and cook for at least 15 minutes, allowing the sauce to thicken slightly.
4. Combine Ingredients: Add the potatoes and stoccafisso to the pot. If necessary, add water to cover the ingredients partially.
5. Cook Until Tender: Cover the pot and cook until the potatoes are tender and the stoccafisso is cooked through, about 20-30 minutes. The sauce should have a creamy consistency.
6. Garnish and Serve: Sprinkle fresh parsley over the dish before serving. Serve hot with crusty bread for soaking up the sauce.

Stoccafisso Accomodato (Ligurian Recipe)

This Ligurian version offers a different flavor profile, emphasizing simplicity and fresh ingredients.

Ingredients:

• Stoccafisso (soaked, cleaned, and cut into pieces)
• Potatoes, peeled and cut into large pieces
• Tomatoes, diced
• Garlic, minced
• Onion, chopped
• Fresh parsley, chopped
• Anchovies in salt, rinsed and chopped
• Pine nuts
• Capers (optional)
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Fish: In a pot of boiling water, blanch the stoccafisso pieces for a few minutes. Drain and set aside. Remove skin and bones.
2. Sauté Aromatics: In a large saucepan, sauté garlic, onion, and chopped anchovies in olive oil until the anchovies dissolve.
3. Add Tomatoes and Fish: Add the diced tomatoes, pine nuts, and capers (if using). Cook for a couple of minutes. Then, add the stoccafisso pieces.
4. Simmer and Cook: Add the potatoes and cook, covered, over medium heat for about 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Add water if needed to prevent sticking.
5. Season and Serve: Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with fresh parsley and serve hot.

Serving Suggestions

Stoccafisso alla ghiotta is a versatile dish that can be enjoyed in various ways:

• Main Course: Serve it as a hearty main course with a side of crusty bread or polenta.
• Pasta Sauce: In Messina, the flavorful sauce is often used to dress spaghetti.
• Appetizer: The stoccafisso can be served cold as part of an antipasto platter.

Wine Pairing

When pairing wine with stoccafisso alla ghiotta, consider the rich and savory flavors of the dish. A light to medium-bodied red wine, such as an Umbrian red from Barberani, can complement the dish without overpowering it. Alternatively, a dry white wine with good acidity can also be a good choice.

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Where to Find Stoccafisso in Genoa

For those looking to purchase high-quality stoccafisso in Genoa, several options are available:

• Bottega dello Stoccafisso (Via dei Macelli di Soziglia): A renowned shop serving Genoese customers since 1936, offering both stoccafisso and baccalà soaked and ready to cook. They also offer a stoccafisso salad.
• Mercato Orientale: Many fishmongers at this market sell excellent pre-soaked stoccafisso.
• Specialized Delis: Some well-stocked delis may also have stoccafisso soaking in tanks.
• Gastronomies: Some gastronomies prepare stoccafisso accomodato on Fridays.

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tags: #ricetta #pesce #stocco