Cartellate Pugliesi: Scopri il Segreto di Questo Dolce Tradizionale Irresistibile!

Introduction

Puglia’s Christmas cuisine boasts a series of tasty recipes ranging from savory to sweet, bringing to the table and into homes decorated for the holidays all the flavor of traditions. Among the traditional Apulian desserts, an honorable mention goes to cartellate, also called carteddàte in the Bari dialect. Apulian cartellate have accompanied entire generations since their first appearance: throughout the region (Bari cartellate and Salento cartellate are the most widespread), cartellate with vincotto are one of the essential symbols of Christmas; it is easy to associate them with the memory of grandmothers busy preparing them for hours and then filling numerous trays waiting to serve them to family and guests. Among the recipes of typical Apulian desserts, that of cartellate is certainly one of the most appreciated and reproduced.

What are Cartellate Pugliesi?

Cartellate al vincotto are friable and crunchy sweets. They are characterized by the presence of bubbles on the surface due to the frying of the pastry, which is accompanied during cooking by white wine. Although cartellate are commonly indicated as typical Apulian sweets, it is not uncommon to eat similar ones also in Basilicata (called “crispedde”) and in Calabria (known as “crispelle”).

The preparation of cartellate with vincotto takes place especially at Christmas: linked to the Christian tradition, these sweets with a typical halo shape would represent not only the swaddling clothes of the Baby Jesus, that is, the bands with which he was wrapped in the cradle, but also the crown of thorns that girded his head for the crucifixion.

Origins and History

Where were the Apulian cartellate invented? There are numerous theories about this, all ancient.

One of the most accredited historical hypotheses is that which sees the birth of cartellate in ancient Egypt, where this sweet dish was prepared to delight the palate of the pharaohs. A rock painting from the 6th century BC found near Bari would depict a dessert, offered to the gods as was customary at that time, which resembles the famous cartellate.

Leggi anche: Ricetta e Preparazione Cartellate

With the advent of Christianity, this type of sweets came back into vogue, becoming a gift for the Madonna. According to some testimonies, cartellate were cooked to donate them to the Madonna so that she could help the population to have good harvests.

The term “cartellate” is also mentioned in a text from 1517 drawn up for the wedding banquet of Bona Sforza, daughter of Isabella of Aragon, and in a document from 1762 written by the Benedictine nuns of a convent in Bari.

Why are they Called Cartellate?

Despite the fact that according to some local scholars the word “cartellate” derives from the Greek kartallos with the meaning of “basket or pointed pannier”, in reality there is no basis in these hypotheses. More likely, however, the name would allude to the arabesque crumpled shape that distinguishes them, which is why it is customary to associate “cartellate” with the typical propensity of paper to fold back on itself, creasing.

Cartellate Pugliesi Recipe and Preparation

Although during the Christmas period throughout Puglia there are numerous village festivals dedicated to this typical dessert considered one of the emblems of Christmas together with other local delicacies, Apulian women prefer to pass on the custom and prepare cartellate in the family following the traditional recipe.

Preparing cartellate requires patience and willing hands: the procedure is rather laborious, but this does not mean that you cannot be up to it. Just follow our steps to understand how to make the Apulian cartellate that you so much want to taste and have tasted.

While each family has different tricks to prepare them at best, the recipe for Apulian cartellate is substantially the same (unless you want to eat baked cartellate, a recipe that does not involve the frying step). The ingredient used to flavor them can also change: some dip them in vincotto, others prefer honey.

Regardless of the type of recipe followed, once cooked there is only one question you need to ask yourself: how are cartellate preserved? Remember to always store them in large containers kept in closed places away from light sources. They are preserved in large containers kept in closed places away from light sources.

Ingredients

500 g of white flour
100 g of white wine (Verdeca)
40 g of Apulian extra virgin olive oil
½ liter of fig vincotto
Salt to taste
Icing sugar and/or cinnamon

Preparation: Cartellate al Vincotto

To start, get a work surface and knead the flour with oil, a pinch of salt and white wine (made in Gravina Verdeca is recommended). Mix everything well until you get a smooth, firm and elastic dough. Let it rest for about 30 minutes. It is preferable to cover the mixture with a cloth in order to allow leavening at a stable temperature.
After 30 minutes you can resume working the leavened dough, roll it out until it is very thin (so that the cartellate are light) and cut out strips about 50 cm long and 3 cm wide with the toothed wheel.
Pinch the strips and form rosettes: start from the end and roll the strips on themselves, pinching the edges to make them adhere better. Once you have obtained the desired shape, let it rest and dry for a whole night.
The next morning, prepare a large and high pan with plenty of boiling oil (about 150 °) and immerse the cartellate for 1-2 minutes until they start to turn golden. Drain and absorb excess oil on sheets of kitchen paper and let cool in the open air for 10-20 minutes.
Heat the grape vincotto in a pan to make it less dense and dip the cartellate, necessarily well covered and impregnated by the mixture. Your dish is now ready to be enjoyed! In case you do not like the grape vincotto you can replace it with the fig vincotto, with honey or with icing sugar. Whatever your preference, you can enjoy the cartellate accompanied by a sip of Moscato di Trani or Nero di Troia, excellent after-meal wines.

Variations and Serving Suggestions

Vincotto Alternatives: If you don't like grape vincotto, you can substitute it with fig vincotto, honey, or icing sugar.
Wine Pairing: Enjoy cartellate with a glass of Moscato di Trani or Nero di Troia for a perfect finish to your meal.
Modern Twists: Some modern variations include chocolate instead of vincotto or a simple dusting of icing sugar.
Baked Cartellate: For a lighter option, bake the cartellate in a preheated oven at 180°C for about 20 minutes until golden brown.

Frying Tips

For an optimal frying of the Bari cartellata, the oil must reach about 175-180 °C.

The frying must take place immersed in peanut oil at 160 °, gently turning the cartellate several times with the skimmer. Keep the oil temperature constant so that bubbles do not form. Once all the cartellate have been fried, leave them on absorbent paper upside down.

How to Store Cartellate

If you want to prepare them one or two days in advance, store the Apulian cartellate in the refrigerator, closed in an airtight container. Dip the cartellate in the vin cotto or honey only when it is time to serve them, in this way they maintain all their fragrance. Fried or baked cartellate can be stored for a long time in airtight glass (or plastic) containers away from sources of heat and humidity.

Leggi anche: Come fare Polpette di Patate

The Cultural Significance

Preparing cartellate in Puglia for Christmas is a tradition that fortunately never fades. According to tradition, women from different families gather to prepare these Christmas sweets together, creating a unique moment of sharing. On these occasions, secrets and ancient knowledge are passed down, making cartellate even more special, not only for their taste, but also for the symbolic value of being together.

The cartellate are a traditional Apulian dessert that is prepared during the Christmas holidays. The dough is made of flour, oil and white wine, fried and then immersed in a mixture of vincotto, honey and spices: the result is friable, crunchy, shiny and fragrant sweets.

The Shape and its Meanings

There are two hypotheses on the name cartellate: the first would derive the term from the Greek, with the meaning of “basket”, to recall their shape; according to the other hypothesis it could derive from “incartellare”, vulgar of “incartocciare”, always in reference to their appearance.

tags: #cartellate #fritte #pugliesi