The Torta Pasqualina Genovese is a savory pie with ancient roots in Ligurian cuisine. Traditionally prepared for Easter, this dish features layers of thin pastry filled with a rich mixture of vegetables, cheese, and eggs. While the classic recipe calls for bietole (Swiss chard), variations with carciofi (artichokes) or a mix of wild herbs are also popular.
A Glimpse into Genoese Culinary History
Genoa and Liguria are renowned for their vegetable pies, which have a long and storied history. During the early Middle Ages, Genoa, a powerful maritime republic, was home to wealthy merchants, bankers, insurers, and brokers who could afford luxurious and refined foods. The cooks of these patrician merchants skillfully combined ingredients such as fresh cheese (sourced from Sardinia and Corsica), vegetables (from nearby valleys), herbs, spices (from trade with the Orient), and oilseeds (pine nuts, almonds, walnuts, techniques learned in the East and on the Black Sea). Meat, however, was scarce due to the lack of extensive pastures for livestock.
The region's mild climate, which didn't necessitate high intakes of fats, calories, and animal proteins, coupled with the sedentary lifestyle of merchants and the well-to-do, led to the development of a light, sophisticated diet based primarily on pasta and vegetables - a precursor to the famed "Mediterranean diet."
Within this context, vegetable pies emerged, consisting of crispy, thin layers of puff pastry encasing seasonal vegetables like bietole, wild herbs (known as prebuggiun), squash, and artichokes, along with fresh cheese, eggs, aromatic herbs, and spices.
The Torta di Carciofi Genovese, in particular, was a prized dish served on the tables of wealthy Genoese families during Easter. It is important to note that this pie is not the renowned "Torta Pasqualina," which is traditionally made with bietole, but rather an elite variant. Artichokes, especially those grown in the Albenga plain, were considered a delicacy that only the affluent could afford. In the mid-1700s, the famous French gastronome Parmantier referred to them as "Genoese sugar."
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Key Ingredients and Substitutions
A key ingredient in Genoese pies is prescinsêua, a curd cheese typical of the Genoese hinterland valleys, obtained through an acidification process of milk. In Genoa, this cheese is readily available, even in supermarkets, thanks to a renewed appreciation for traditional cuisine. Outside of Genoa, however, it can be difficult to find. A suitable substitute is ricotta cheese, which was commonly used by Genoese housewives in the past. In fact, ricotta was once even more highly regarded than prescinsêua and was used to elevate the pie. If using ricotta, it's best to omit the flour called for in the recipe.
To maintain the tangy flavor of prescinsêua when using ricotta, consider adding sour cream or plain yogurt.
Tips for Perfecting the Dough
Achieving thin, elastic pastry is essential. Knead the dough thoroughly at the beginning and allow it to rest for an extended period to relax the fibers. When rolling out the dough, generously flour the work surface and add plenty of flour to prevent sticking. Stretch the dough as much as possible without creating holes.
Another technique for achieving a beautiful domed shape is to gently blow air under each sheet of pastry. Before sealing a layer around the edge of the pan, leave a small opening and blow air underneath the dough to inflate it. While the pastry may crack and crumble during baking, this method contributes to the pie's unique character.
Torta Pasqualina Genovese Recipe
This recipe blends traditional techniques with practical adaptations for the modern cook.
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Ingredients:
For the Dough:
- 600g flour
- Water, as needed
- ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
For the Filling:
- 500g bietole (Swiss chard), or a mix of bietole and borragine (borage), or artichokes
- 6 eggs
- ½ onion, finely chopped
- 300g prescinsêua (or ricotta cheese)
- 80g grated Parmesan cheese
- Fresh marjoram, to taste
- Salt and pepper, to taste
Instructions:
Prepare the Dough:
- In a bowl, combine the flour, most of the water, and the olive oil. Knead by hand or with a mixer.
- Gradually add more water until the dough is smooth and homogeneous.
- Continue kneading for 5-10 minutes until the dough becomes very elastic.
- Divide the dough into 6 equal-sized balls. Cover with a damp cloth and let rest for at least 30 minutes (or longer).
Prepare the Filling:
- If using artichokes: Clean the artichokes by removing the tough outer leaves, the tips, and the inner choke. Slice thinly and soak in a bowl of cold water with lemon juice to prevent browning.
- Sauté the chopped onion in a pan with olive oil until lightly golden.
- If using artichokes: Drain the artichokes well, add them to the pan with the onion, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until tender.
- Remove from heat and transfer to a bowl. Add Parmesan cheese and chopped marjoram. Season with salt and pepper.
- In a separate bowl, whisk the flour into the cooking cream until smooth, then mix in the prescinsêua (or ricotta) and a pinch of salt.
Assemble the Torta:
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- Preheat oven to 180°C (350°F).
- Grease a 22-24 cm (9-10 inch) baking pan with olive oil.
- On a floured surface, roll out one of the dough balls into a very thin sheet, large enough to cover the pan and overhang the edges. Be generous with flour to prevent sticking.
- Carefully place the sheet in the pan, being careful not to tear it. Brush with olive oil.
- Repeat with two more dough balls, layering them in the pan and brushing each with olive oil.
- Spread the vegetable filling evenly over the pastry base. Drizzle with a little olive oil.
- Spread the cheese mixture evenly over the vegetable filling.
- Create four symmetrical indentations in the filling with a spoon. Place a small pat of butter in each indentation, then crack an egg into each one. Sprinkle each egg with salt and pepper.
- Cover the pie with the remaining three sheets of dough, following the same procedure as the base. Remember to brush each sheet with olive oil before layering.
- Trim the excess dough around the edges of the pan and fold it inward to seal the pie and create a border. Brush the surface with olive oil.
- Bake for about 45 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown and crispy.
- Let cool slightly before serving. Serve warm or cold.
Variations and Serving Suggestions
- With Puff Pastry: For a quicker version, use store-bought puff pastry.
- With Different Vegetables: Experiment with spinach, a mix of wild herbs, or other seasonal vegetables.
- Serving: Torta Pasqualina is delicious served as a main course, side dish, or as part of a picnic. It pairs well with a light, unoaked white wine, such as Vermentino dei Colli di Luni or Pigato.
tags: #torta #pasqualina #genovese