The Anolini Piacentini, known locally as "Anvein," represent the quintessential dish of Piacenza, gracing tables during Christmas and festive occasions. This age-old recipe, passed down through generations, embodies the rich culinary heritage of the region. These are a type of stuffed pasta, known for their rich and elaborate preparation, yet refined flavor. They are made with meat and handmade pasta.
A Family Affair
Tradition dictates that families gather on Christmas Eve to collectively prepare the anolini, the opening course of the Christmas lunch. Memories of these cherished moments at grandma's house, filled with the anticipation of preparing the stracotto (braised beef) the day before, evoke an unparalleled sense of warmth and nostalgia. The aroma of the stracotto permeated the house, creating an unforgettable atmosphere. The process continued with the preparation of the filling and the delicate pasta, meticulously crafted into small pockets to encase the savory meat filling.
Variations and Origins
While the core recipe remains consistent, variations exist, often reflecting family traditions and local preferences, and all are equally delicious. These variations evoke memories of family celebrations, long tables laden with food, steaming tureens, and dishes reserved for special occasions. Two cities, Piacenza and Parma, lay claim to the origins of this dish, and the ingredients may vary from town to town. Anolini, egg pasta with filling, served in broth, are the Christmas dish of Piacenza and Parma. There are also "cousins" in the province of Cremona, known as marubini.
The Stracotto: Heart of the Filling
The stracotto, meaning "overcooked," derives its name from the extended cooking process. Typically made with beef pulp, the stracotto intended for anolini preparation is slow-cooked to achieve exceptional tenderness. According to Carmen Artocchini's culinary bible of Piacenza, the stracotto is prepared by larding beef, browning it in a terracotta casserole with butter, onion, celery, carrots, and minced pancetta, and deglazing with white or red wine and tomato sauce. The meat simmers for a minimum of five hours, resulting in a melt-in-your-mouth texture described as "meat butter."
The recommended method for infusing the stracotto with its characteristic aromas and achieving its desired consistency involves covering the terracotta pot with a terracotta plate filled with red wine, which is replenished as it evaporates. Once cooked, the meat is finely minced along with the vegetables. Grana Padano cheese, breadcrumbs, eggs, and nutmeg are then added to create a homogeneous mixture.
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In the province of the four valleys, Val Nure, Val Trebbia, Val Tidone and Val d'Arda, it is practically impossible to provide a complete list of all stracotto recipes. The best-known alternative offers a filling based exclusively on Grana Padano and breadcrumbs and belongs to the Castell'Arquato area. The filling is made with beef stracotto, cooked in a similar way to the Piacenza one, but accompanied by Parmigiano Reggiano instead of Grana cheese. Different meats and brains are used for the filling, but also only brains or only beef marrow. Sometimes pepper and chopped parsley are added to the seasoning with salt and nutmeg. Stewed meat alla cremonese and salamella (or fresh garlic salami) can also be included in the filling.
Broth Variations
The broth for anolini also boasts numerous variations. Butchers often recommend using cuts like pernice, doppione, or traversino from beef or veal. Pork options include neck or thigh cuts (those unsuitable for cured meats) or ribs. Similar to anolini-marubini, broth variations are virtually endless. A broth worthy of marubini typically comprises three types of meat: veal, beef, and chicken (or beef, chicken, and fresh salami from the pot, a specialty of Cremona's delicatessens). Ideally, the three meats are cooked separately before being combined. While marubini can be served dry, anolini broth, according to Artocchini, should be made with beef, capon, and lean pork. The Castell'Arquato recipe substitutes pork with veal breast. Another variation is the "brodo in quarta," incorporating fattened beef.
Piacenza vs. Parma: The Anolini Rivalry
The ongoing "anolini war" between the two Emilian provinces has resulted in a stalemate. The tenth list of traditional Italian agri-food products (updated to 2010) attributes Anolini, anvein, amvei, anvei, anven to the province of Piacenza, while anolino or anolen is assigned to Parma.
Anolini Asciutti Piacentini Recipe
While traditionally served in broth, anolini can also be enjoyed "asciutti" (dry), dressed with butter and sage or a light tomato sauce. Here's a recipe for preparing anolini asciutti piacentini:
Ingredients:
- For the Stracotto:
- 400g lean beef
- 2 cloves garlic
- Butter
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- 1 celery stalk, chopped
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Red wine
- Beef broth (optional)
- For the Filling:
- Cooked stracotto (as prepared above)
- 250g breadcrumbs
- 50g grated Grana Padano cheese
- 1 egg
- Nutmeg
- For the Pasta:
- 150g flour
- 300g eggs
Instructions:
- Prepare the Stracotto:
- Lard the lean meat with the garlic cloves.
- Brown the meat in butter, adding the chopped onion and celery. Season with salt and pepper.
- Deglaze with red wine and add beef broth (if using).
- Simmer over low heat for about 4 hours, or until the liquid is almost completely absorbed.
- Finely chop the stracotto.
- Make the Filling:
- Soak the breadcrumbs in the cooking liquid from the stracotto.
- Combine the chopped stracotto, soaked breadcrumbs, grated Grana Padano cheese, egg, and nutmeg. Mix until well combined.
- Prepare the Pasta:
- Mix the flour and eggs to form a smooth dough.
- Roll out the pasta into a thin sheet.
- Assemble the Anolini:
- Place small mounds of filling (about a teaspoon each) on one half of the pasta sheet, spacing them about 5-6 cm apart.
- Fold the other half of the pasta sheet over the filling.
- Cut out the anolini using a round or star-shaped pasta cutter.
- Cook the Anolini:
- Cook the anolini in boiling salted water for a few minutes, or until they float to the surface.
- Serve:
- Drain the anolini and toss with melted butter and sage or a light tomato sauce.
- Serve immediately, garnished with grated Grana Padano cheese.
Step-by-Step Instructions with Visual Aids
Preparing the Broth:
- Cut the celery and carrots into pieces.
- Place the vegetables and capon in a pot.
- Skim off any foam that forms on the surface to keep the broth clear.
- Remove the meat and vegetables, strain the broth into another pot, and keep warm.
- Add the beef and brown on all sides.
- Add the cloves, cover, and cook over medium-low heat for 4-5 hours, turning the meat occasionally. The cooking liquid should reduce to a thick sauce.
- Remove the meat (this can be served as a separate course). Strain the remaining liquid through a sieve into a bowl (you should get about 200g).
- Remove the crust from the bread and crumble the inside.
- Add the breadcrumbs and mix well.
- Mix to obtain a homogeneous mixture and set aside.
Preparing the Pasta and Assembling the Anolini:
- To prepare the fresh pasta, place the flour in a fountain and pour the beaten eggs inside.
- Gradually incorporate the flour with a fork, then knead with your hands until you obtain a smooth and homogeneous dough.
- Take 7 g of filling at a time and form balls, placing them on a tray as you make them.
- Flatten each piece of dough and fold the dough to pass it through the roller.
- Continue to pass the dough through the pasta machine, decreasing the thickness each time, until you obtain two sheets of 2 mm thick.
- As you make them, place them on a tray covered with slightly floured parchment paper. You will get about 60 anolini.
- Cook the anolini in capon broth for a few minutes.
- Serve and finish with grated Parmesan cheese.
Tips and Storage:
- It is recommended to consume the cooked anolini immediately.
- For longer storage, they can be frozen raw: place them on a tray without overlapping and, once solidified, transfer them to food bags. In this way, they will last up to 2-3 months. When cooking, immerse them directly in the boiling broth without thawing them.
- To obtain a less fatty broth, you can filter it through absorbent paper, in this way some fat will remain on the paper.
Variations in Filling and Shape
Some variations include cheese in the filling, while others use only stracotto. The shape of the anolini can also vary, with some being round and others star-shaped, depending on the cutter used.
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Wine Pairings
To complement the rich flavors of anolini, consider pairing them with local red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Gutturnio, Barbera, or Bonarda.
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