Pasta alla Mugnaia, also known as "maccheroni stretti alla mano," is a traditional Abruzzese dish that embodies the rustic charm and culinary heritage of the region. This comforting pasta, typically served with a rich meat sauce, offers a taste of authentic Italian cuisine. While traditionally enjoyed with a hearty meat ragù, it is equally delightful with a simple white sauce. This article explores the history, preparation, and variations of this beloved dish.
A Glimpse into History
The origins of Pasta alla Mugnaia are steeped in history, dating back to the era of King Angiò around 1340. This dish, born from the ingenuity of millers (mugnai in Italian), has evolved over the centuries, becoming a symbol of Abruzzese culinary identity.
According to legend, in the year 1063, Elena, the daughter of a miller named Giosia, wanted to prepare a hearty meal for the workers. Using freshly ground flour, she created a unique pasta shape, a long, thin strand. This pasta, cooked and seasoned with oil, garlic, and chili peppers, was served on a wooden table and shared by all, thus earning the name Pasta alla Mugnaia. The dish quickly became a staple, representing a simple yet satisfying meal for the working class.
Historical records suggest that Pasta alla Mugnaia was introduced to Roberto d’Angiò, King of Naples, around 1340 by Bartolomeo da Bisenti, a physician from Teramo. Over time, the pasta's name evolved based on geographical location: those from the Pescara side of the Fino river became known as "molinara," while those from the Teramo countryside were called "alla mugnaia."
The Essence of Simplicity: Ingredients and Preparation
The essence of Pasta alla Mugnaia lies in its simplicity. The recipe calls for few ingredients, but each one plays a crucial role in achieving the dish's distinctive flavor and texture.
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Ingredients:
- 400g Farina 00 (or all-purpose flour)
- 230g Water
- Salt to taste
- Optional: 1-2 Eggs
Preparation:
- The Dough: On a wooden board, combine the flour and create a well in the center. Add the egg (if using) and gradually incorporate the flour, mixing from the edges of the well. Slowly add water and continue kneading until a smooth dough forms. Cover the dough with a bowl and let it rest for about 30 minutes.
- Shaping the Pasta: Divide the dough into four parts (or work with it as a single mass). Make a hole in the center of each portion. Shape the dough into a ring and begin working it with your hands on the board to create a long strand. When the strand reaches a thickness of about 2 cm, thin it further by rolling it between your palms.
- Cooking: Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water until it floats to the top.
Variations and Condiments
While traditionally served with a rich meat ragù, Pasta alla Mugnaia lends itself to various sauces and condiments. Here are some popular options:
- Ragù with Meat and Mushrooms: Prepare a ragù with ground meat and mushrooms for a hearty and flavorful sauce. A pressure cooker can expedite the process, making it easy and quick.
- "Finto" Sauce: A simple tomato sauce made with tomato sauce, half an onion, one carrot cut vertically, a pinch of baking soda, and extra virgin olive oil from Aprutino-Pescarese DOP.
- Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino: A classic and simple sauce consisting of garlic, olive oil, and chili peppers. This was the common condiment in medieval times.
- Ragù of Pork or Veal: You can add different types of peppers, use veal or pork meat, with or without bone.
- White Sauce: For a lighter option, serve the pasta with a simple white sauce.
Where to Savor Pasta alla Mugnaia in Pescara
For those seeking an authentic Pasta alla Mugnaia experience, several restaurants in the province of Pescara are renowned for their expertly prepared versions:
- La Bilancia, Contrada Palazzo 11, Loreto Aprutino
- Torre Antica, Contrada Pischiarano 2, Moscufo
- Lu Strego, via del Colle, Farindola
- La Mugnaia, Contrada Piano di Sacco 95, Città S. Angelo
- Da Margherita, via Villa Cipressi 18, Città S. Angelo
The "Banda della Mugnaia": Preserving Tradition
In the Sangro Valley of Abruzzo, the tradition of Pasta alla Mugnaia faced the threat of disappearing. However, thanks to the efforts of dedicated individuals, this culinary heritage was preserved.
Nicola Di Lallo, a miller, championed the dish, teaching others how to make it and showcasing it at events like Terra Madre. When illness prevented him from continuing, a group of friends formed the "Banda della Mugnaia" to carry on his legacy. This cultural association perpetuates the art of making Pasta alla Mugnaia, ensuring that this unique culinary tradition remains alive.
Tips and Tricks
- Fresh Pasta: Using fresh, homemade pasta is highly recommended, as it absorbs the sauce better and creates a creamier texture.
- Drying the Pasta: After shaping the pasta, allow it to dry slightly on a tray before cooking.
- Cooking Time: Be careful not to overcook the pasta; it should be "al dente" (firm to the bite).
- Serving: Serve the pasta immediately after cooking, garnished with grated pecorino cheese.
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