The Antica Confetteria Romanengo stands as a testament to Italian confectionery artistry, with a legacy stretching back to 1780. More than just a pastry shop, it is a treasure trove of history, encapsulating centuries of tradition and evolving tastes. This article delves into the rich history of Romanengo, its iconic products, and its enduring commitment to quality.
Origins: From Spices to Sweets
The story begins with Antonio Maria Romanengo, who, around 1780, left his home in Voltaggio, a hilly area near Genoa, and established a shop in Via della Maddalena, Genoa. Initially, the shop specialized in spices and colonial goods, capitalizing on the bustling trade facilitated by the city's port. Antonio Maria Romanengo was drawn to Genoa by the thriving commercial activity sustained by the large port, intending to start a spice business.
However, it was his sons, Stefano and Francesco, who expanded the business by introducing the artisanal production of fine confectionery. They added to the shop the artisanal manufacture and gave life to the fine Genoese confectionery production: candied fruit, confetti and almond paste. This marked the transition into the world of confectionery, with a focus on candied fruits, dragées (confetti), and almond paste.
In 1814, during the Restoration period, the family moved the shop to Via Soziglia, where it remains to this day. The family moved the shop to Via Soziglia in 1814, during the period of restoration. This location became the heart of Romanengo's operations and a symbol of its enduring presence in Genoa.
A Legacy of Craftsmanship
Stefano, Antonio Maria's son, obtained a confectioner's license and opened the Via Soziglia store. In this shop, he prepared a wide range of products, from candied fruit to chocolate, including bonbons, confetti, and preserves. After the long years of war that had marked the Napoleonic period, he chose a dove with an olive branch as his brand. Stefano was succeeded by Pietro, who shaped his business according to the ancient professional figure of the French "confiseur-chocolatier". Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano, moreover, did not abandon the trade in sugar and colonial products that he imported through the port.
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In the second half of the 19th century, Romanengo products reached an increasingly vast clientele, including Prince Umberto of Savoy and Giuseppe Verdi. Also Stefano, son of Pietro, confirmed the artisanal direction of the company renouncing to give it a more industrial imprint. The same choice would have been made by the successors Pietro and then the cousins Giuseppe and Antonio, custodians of a productive reality based on quality and tradition.
The Romanengo family has always prioritized quality and traditional methods. This dedication to craftsmanship has allowed them to maintain a high standard of product and preserve the unique character of their confectionery.
Iconic Products and Techniques
Romanengo's fame rests on its exquisite range of confectionery, prepared using time-honored techniques. The company's production is still organized according to the 19th-century French and Italian model, with the division by departments of a large laboratory: the departments, called workshops, are led by artisans who follow to the letter the recipes of both the ancient figure of confiseur-chocolatier, and the Genoese art of candying.
Candied Fruit: A Testament to Arab Influence
A cornerstone of Romanengo's offerings is candied fruit. Genoa is closed behind by the mountains and faces the sea; for this reason, apart from the few products that the territory has to offer, we rely on trade, what the boats transport and the fruits that come from afar. The candying techniques learned from the Arabs have allowed the Romanengo to preserve fresh fruit for long periods: candying consists of immersing the fruit or flower petals in sugar syrups at various concentrations, a process that requires time and patience. The water present in the fruit is gradually replaced by sugar, which acts as a natural preservative, preserving the consistency, color and original flavor of the product. The method not only allows you to keep the flavors unchanged, but intensifies them, creating a perfect balance between sweetness and freshness. The technique of candying, which involves preserving fruits and flowers in sugar syrup, is a testament to the influence of Arab traditions in Genoese confectionery. This process, passed down through generations, allows Romanengo to preserve the flavors and aromas of seasonal ingredients, creating a range of candied delights.
Confetti: A Celebration Staple
Confetti, or dragées, are another signature product of Romanengo. These sugar-coated almonds, pine nuts, pistachios, cinnamon bark, and cardamom are a traditional Italian treat often associated with celebrations like weddings and baptisms. Romanengo's confetti are made with the finest ingredients and meticulous attention to detail, ensuring a delightful and flavorful experience.
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Chocolate: A Fusion of Traditions
In the 19th century, Romanengo expanded its offerings to include chocolate, blending Italian and French traditions. This fusion resulted in a range of chocolates that showcase the company's commitment to quality and innovation.
Other Delights
In addition to candied fruits, confetti, and chocolates, Romanengo offers a variety of other sweets, including:
- Fondants: Mints, roses, and violets, to be melted in the mouth.
- Rosolio Drops: Created even today with manual molds.
- Almond Paste: A classic Italian confection.
- Seasonal Specialties: Including artisanal torrone during the Christmas season, chocolate pots and almond paste ravioli during Carnival, and chocolate eggs and sugar fantasies during Easter.
Maintaining Tradition in a Changing World
Despite its long history, Romanengo has not been immune to the challenges of a changing world. In recent years, the company has faced the need to adapt to new market demands while preserving its core values. According to Violante Avogadro di Vigliano, CEO of the company, the main challenge is dealing with a market dominated by price. Romanengo's products, however, are not mass-market, and their high-level positioning means that quality makes the difference.
One significant development was the entry of French entrepreneur Jean-Sébastien Decaux into the management of Romanengo. Decaux, co-CEO of JCDecaux Holding, acquired the confectionery in 2019 and has since spearheaded efforts to modernize the business while staying true to its heritage. Decaux explained to Il Gusto what will remain of the brand of the Genoese confectionery. Everything - he stressed -. On the contrary, we have also recovered what was the idea at the origin of the brand: the sale of spices. That at the end of 1700 the Romanengo sold on a stall in the port, taking them directly from ships arriving from the East and the Arab world. First the spices and then the candied fruit, according to ancient recipe.
Decaux's vision includes expanding Romanengo's reach while maintaining its commitment to quality and craftsmanship. This includes opening new stores, such as the one in Milan, and developing new products that appeal to modern tastes.
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Romanengo Today: A Blend of Past and Present
Today, Antica Confetteria Romanengo stands as a symbol of Italian confectionery excellence. With shops in Genoa and Milan, the company continues to delight customers with its exquisite products and timeless charm.
The Genoa Store: A Protected Monument
The historic store in Via Soziglia is more than just a shop; it is a protected monument. The shop in Soziglia still retains the original furnishings: precious wood shelving, marble floors, ceilings decorated with frescoes and stuccos. Every detail contributes to creating a unique atmosphere, which transports visitors to a distant era. Its original furnishings, marble floors, and frescoed ceilings evoke a sense of history and tradition.
The Milan Store: A Modern Interpretation
The new store in Milan, on the other hand, represents a modern interpretation of the Romanengo brand. Designed by Studio Cousi Interiorismo of Madrid and architect Filippo Meda, the store features three main areas: a confectionery, a tea room, and a spice shop.
The Confetteria: Facing the street, the confectionery showcases Romanengo's signature sweets, including candied fruits, fondants, chocolates, and confetti. The deep greens of the walls and velvets and the black of the floor are lightened by a backlit ceiling with floral motifs. Niches, fan-shaped lampshades and wrought iron seats create an atmosphere of class and at the same time relaxed, vaguely reminiscent of the carriage of a luxury train. Among the shelves also emerge the elegant packages with blue wrapping and white twine.
The Tea Room: A place to enjoy rare blends, herbal teas and infusions inspired by the wallpaper inside, with oriental reproductions. A second room is instead a Tea Room, where you can enjoy rare blends, herbal teas and infusions inspired by the wallpaper inside, with oriental reproductions.
The Spice Shop: A tribute to Romanengo's origins as a spice merchant, the spice shop offers a wide variety of herbs, spices, and teas from around the world. The glass and ceramic containers are neatly displayed in plain sight, a bit like those found in old pharmacies, with mysterious names and characters and hide fragrant mixes of spices and infusions from the four corners of the world. Curry, pepper and unique mixtures to flavor dishes are presented in almost impossible varieties.
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