The Neapolitan tradition is unwavering: seven strips adorn the pastiera napoletana. This isn't mere decoration; it's a practice steeped in history, legend, and culinary practicality. But beyond the sweet allure of pastiera, the Campania region, particularly the area between Pisciotta and Cetara, celebrates another treasure from the sea: the anchovy, or alice. These small fish, prepared in countless ways, form the heart of dishes like spaghetti alla leucosia, a testament to the region's rich maritime heritage.
The Enigmatic Seven Strips of Pastiera Napoletana
The pastiera, a symbol of Neapolitan Easter, is a shortcrust pastry shell filled with cooked wheat, sheep's ricotta, candied fruit, and the aroma of orange blossom water. While families cherish their own unique recipes, the seven strips of pastry that grace the top are a common thread. But what is the significance of this number?
Legends Woven in Dough
Several legends attempt to explain the seven strips:
The Siren Parthenia: According to one tale rooted in Greek mythology, Parthenia, one of the sirens who failed to seduce Ulysses, washed ashore and became the namesake of Naples (Parthenope). The grateful people offered her seven gifts: flour, wheat, ricotta, eggs, candied fruit, orange blossom, and sugar. These gifts, combined, became the pastiera, and the seven strips represent those offerings.
The Plan of Ancient Neapolis: Another theory suggests that the seven strips mirror the urban plan of ancient Neapolis (Naples), representing the three Decumani and four Cardini, the city's main streets. However, this interpretation has been disputed.
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The Fishermen's Wives: A third legend speaks of fishermen's wives offering seven baskets of ingredients-ricotta, candied fruit, wheat, flour, butter, eggs, and orange blossoms-to the sea, hoping for their husbands' safe return. The next morning, the waves had mixed the ingredients, creating the first pastiera. The seven strips, in this version, symbolize the seven baskets.
The Practical Explanation
A less romantic, but perhaps more plausible, explanation is that the seven strips, arranged in a lattice pattern, provide the necessary closure to prevent the filling (which expands during baking) from overflowing. The number of strips may vary depending on the size of the baking mold.
Beyond Pastiera: Celebrating the Alice
While the pastiera showcases Neapolitan baking traditions, the region also excels in seafood cuisine. The area between Pisciotta and Cetara is particularly known for its alici, or anchovies. These versatile fish are prepared fresh, salted, or preserved in oil, and used in countless dishes.
Spaghetti with Fresh Alici and Cherry Tomatoes: A Recipe from the Coast
The Lido Miramare restaurant, located between Pisciotta and Cetara, offers a taste of this coastal cuisine. Chef Djamal Lounici creates a daily menu based on the freshest catch, and alici are a frequent star. One such dish is spaghetti with fresh alici and cherry tomatoes.
Ingredients for 4 people:
- 300g fresh anchovies, filleted
- 300g cherry tomatoes
- Garlic
- Olive oil
- Grated tarallo (or breadcrumbs)
- Salt
- Pepper
- Parsley
- Spaghetti
Instructions:
- In a pan, lightly sauté garlic in olive oil.
- Add the anchovies and cook for just a few minutes.
- Add the cherry tomatoes and cook for a few more minutes.
- Stir in the grated tarallo, adding pasta water as needed to create a sauce.
- Cook spaghetti in salted water.
- Drain the spaghetti and add it to the sauce, tossing to combine.
- Serve with a sprinkle of parsley.
Tips for Success:
- Use the freshest anchovies possible.
- Don't overcook the anchovies; they should barely be cooked through.
- Reserve some anchovies to fry separately and use as a garnish.
- Add a pinch of red pepper flakes for a touch of heat.
Variations on a Theme
The basic recipe for spaghetti with alici and pomodorini can be adapted to suit different tastes:
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- Capers and Olives: Add capers and black or Taggiasche olives for a more intense flavor.
- Tuna: Substitute canned tuna for the anchovies for a milder flavor.
Leucosia: A Siren's Song in the Cilento
Leucosia, one of the three sirens who attempted to enchant Ulysses, lends her name to Punta Licosa, an islet in the Cilento region. This siren's name also graces a 38-foot gozzo (a traditional wooden boat) crafted by Nautica Esposito. This boat, equipped with a small kitchen, offers a unique dining experience: fresh seafood prepared and enjoyed on the sea.
A Culinary Cruise
Chef Luigi Iapigio, known for his innovative mussel dishes, creates culinary magic on the Leucosia. Imagine sampling raw red shrimp, freshly caught from the waters around Punta Licosa, paired with Champagne Bruno Paillard. Or savoring a "fresella di mare," a miniature version of the traditional toasted bread, topped with the freshest seafood.
Nerano di Cozze on the Open Sea
Even a simple dish like Nerano di Cozze (spaghetti with zucchini and mussels) becomes extraordinary when prepared on the Leucosia, with the sea breeze and the stunning Cilento coastline as a backdrop.
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