La pasta in bianco, often relegated to the realm of childhood comfort food or a last resort for those feeling under the weather, has undergone a remarkable transformation. Once dismissed as a non-recipe, absent from restaurant menus, it now captivates chefs and diners alike, emerging as a symbol of culinary innovation. This article explores the evolution of pasta in bianco, from its simple beginnings to its current status as a coveted dish in the world of haute cuisine.
The Unexpected Allure of Simplicity
The initial perception of pasta in bianco is often one of blandness. It's the dish children eat, or adults resort to when ill or lacking ingredients. It scarcely qualifies as a recipe and is rarely found on menus. However, in today's high-end culinary scene, pasta in bianco fascinates both chefs and customers. In the heart of Milan, it has become the iconic dish of the new hotel Portrait.
From Home Remedy to Hollywood Star: Fettuccine Alfredo
The story of pasta in bianco's ascent begins with a seemingly simple act of culinary care. In 1908, in Rome, a restaurateur named Alfredo Di Lelio created a dish for his wife, weakened after childbirth: Fettuccine Alfredo. This dish, born as a simple pasta in bianco, was generously enriched with Parmesan cheese and butter.
Alfredo's creation, intended as a comforting and fortifying meal, quickly transcended its humble origins. It found its way onto the tables of Hollywood stars, becoming a global sensation. While Italians may still view pasta in bianco as a lesser dish, in America, Fettuccine Alfredo is a beloved representation of Italian cuisine.
It is important to note the difference between Fettuccine Alfredo and Cacio e Pepe. Fettuccine Alfredo is made with butter and Parmesan cheese, while Cacio e Pepe is prepared with Pecorino cheese, black pepper, and nothing else. However, pasta in bianco is something else entirely.
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Gualtiero Marchesi: Elevating Simplicity to Art
Gualtiero Marchesi, a visionary in Italian cuisine, recognized the potential of pasta in bianco long before it became a trend. In 2000, he was the first to transform it into a gourmet experience. Marchesi's approach involved using various pasta shapes and a drizzle of olive oil to showcase the essence of the pasta itself: the quality of the wheat, the precision of the cooking, and the form of the pasta.
Marchesi's vision paved the way for other chefs to experiment with pasta in bianco, pushing the boundaries of culinary creativity.
Variations on a Theme: Contemporary Interpretations
Today, numerous chefs are exploring the possibilities of pasta in bianco, each adding their unique touch to this seemingly simple dish. Alfio Ghezzi, a Michelin-starred chef, cooks pasta in a Chardonnay wine reduction. Gianluca Gorini serves spaghetti with gentian butter, bergamot, and goat cheese. Giuseppe Iannotti creates pastina in bianco, while Alberto Gipponi offers a "Pasta bianca with nothing inside." Mario Uliassi, a three-star chef, uses herring to enhance the flavor. In Milan, chef Alberto Quadrio at the Portrait restaurant uses only Parmesan cheese.
The "Pasta in Bianco" of the Moment in Milan
The Portrait Hotel in Milan opened in November on Corso Venezia and was one of the most anticipated openings of the year. It was not just for another luxury hotel, but because it meant the arrival of a new square for Milan, literally closed, like the whole complex occupied today by the hotel, since 1990. The former cloister of the Archiepiscopal Seminary owned by the Diocese of Milan is now Piazza del Quadrilatero, 2800 m2 open to the city which is accessed through the splendid Baroque portal of Francesco Maria Richini. All around are the sixteenth-century porticoes that lead to the reception, shops and 10_11, house numbers of the Portrait, which give the name to the bar-restaurant where you can stop for a coffee, an aperitif, or for lunch or dinner. It is a manifesto of great Italian hospitality: mondeghili, risotto al salto, veal in tuna sauce "as it once was" and pasta in bianco. The young chef Alberto Quadrio, chosen to lead this ambitious new project, supported by the experience of the "coach" Andrea Ribaldone, brings to the table the most basic of Italian dishes. And among industry journalists (and watching Instagram), it is pleasing.
Alberto Quadrio's "Idea" of Pasta in Bianco
Chef Alberto Quadrio's idea of pasta in bianco is based on two ingredients that blend together: zero butter, zero oil, even zero Parmigiano Reggiano; because nothing is thrown away from the cheese and here the real protagonists are the crusts. Only 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano and fusilloni (a pasta shape increasingly loved by chefs) from Pietro Massi. Alberto explains, rotating a copper bowl full of gushing fusilli: «I make a kind of risotto with it, so I don't cook it in salted water, but in a broth that we make with the crusts, as grandmothers used to do. First I filter the broth, we work the solid part to obtain the crunchy part of the dish, while the broth is decanted so that the solid, fatty and liquid parts separate. I cook the pasta al dente in the water obtained and then stir it with the fatty part, almost a cream, at the moment», in front of the guests. The result is a super concentrate of pasta in bianco, with a good bite, great umami, stirred in its own sauce, but without any added grated cheese. Is it one of the most ordered dishes? «The second, after the mondeghili. Beats the risotto al salto with gremolada ragout».
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A Democratic Restaurant
"But do you really serve pasta in bianco?" The question arises spontaneously and I ask it directly to chef Andrea Ribaldone, who curated the concept of the restaurant (and who works as a consultant, the gray eminence of much quality Italian catering). «Sharing and familiarity, simple dishes, this is the format that was studied with Alberto and the Ferragamo family. The 10_11 wants to be a truly democratic restaurant, not a snobbish place, but a warm, inclusive environment where you can feel at home, with Italian values», he explains to me. And the cuisine must therefore be easy for everyone, accessible in taste. «The pasta in bianco is the signature, the symbol of this idea. It is a dish that everyone eats, that everyone has eaten, maybe that they no longer eat, but that they know. Do we make it strange? No. Like the other classic dishes, we do it well so that it is recognizable and has a transversal taste, which appeals to gourmets as well as to the person who rarely goes to the restaurant or for a business lunch, and who must want to return tomorrow as well». How much does it cost? The right amount: €24 for pasta in bianco or €40 for a complete lunch menu, i.e. competitive prices for Milan, given the environment. Trivial? There will also be a fine dining restaurant, a gastronomic one that will open in 2023». But we bet that pasta in bianco will continue to be talked about.
A Divisive Dish: The Milanese Debate
In Milan, a controversy has been raging for a few weeks: 26 euros for a pasta in bianco. Criticisms, divisive opinions, justifications… but who is right? We went to try it. We are in an exclusive location in the fashion district, Portrait Milano is an authentic 5-star luxury hotel in Corso Venezia, which in addition to numerous rooms houses the 10_11, a restaurant and "crime scene" in our case. The "culprit" is chef Alberto Quadrio, a recent addition to the structure. Originally from Gattinara in Piedmont, born in 1990, he began his career at Gualtiero Marchesi's Marchesino in Milan and then strung together important experiences such as those at Pietro Leemann's Joia, at Asola with Matteo Torretta, at Capri Palace, at Hishinuma and Narisawa in Tokyo, at Disfrutar in Barcelona and at Geranium in Copenhagen - where he was in the kitchen when the restaurant received its third Michelin star - and at Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athenée in Paris. Great experiences, young age and a great desire to amaze as you can guess. Quadrio himself reveals that he is eagerly awaiting the opening - scheduled for October - of the fine dining part of the restaurant, where he will be able to fully express his idea of cuisine. In the meantime, he limits himself to making people talk about him. How? With the pasta in bianco of course.
Contextualizing the Controversy
Let's contextualize it: the 10_11 restaurant at the moment is a bar with a garden, let's be clear. Great exclusivity, but at the moment we are in a beautiful and informal restaurant with a view. In the dining room, sufficiency is barely reached. Bread (which is purchased from the famous Longoni bakery) is not heated, the wine list is from a luxury hotel and some orders do not arrive at their destination. In short, kindness saves it, but €5 for cover charges seem perhaps excessive. There will be a lot of work to do for October, that's for sure. The menu is rich and varied, traditional dishes, some reinterpretations, sandwiches and salads. In addition to everything else, of course, the aforementioned pasta in bianco, which we order immediately.
A Revelation in Simplicity
The presentation of chef Alberto Quadrio's idea of pasta in bianco comes in the form of fusilli; you immediately notice the creaminess of the stirring and it presents a sprinkling of crunchy Parmigiano Reggiano in the finish. Since I don't like to keep you waiting, I'll tell you right away: it's amazing. The pasta is from Pietro Massi, one of the best (and most expensive) pasta factories in Italy, which produces this pasta made of egg white, an absolute novelty on the market, created exclusively with semolina and egg white, for a natural protein intake and a low saturated fat content. A fusillo that is presented perfectly cooked, boiled first in a broth made as it once was, with 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano crusts, which is then stirred with the surfacing fat of the same broth. No water, no butter, no solid matter and no salt. A pasta that lives on the purity of the product. A concentrate of umami that makes this pasta an experience with every bite. We started with few expectations, we admit; nurturing hope only in the name of the chef, who in fact did not disappoint. This pasta is absolutely worth trying, a slap in the face to the static nature of the proposal in the Milanese scene. In fairness, we add, everything we ate at the 10_11 restaurant in Portrait Milano was really good. We chat with the chef, who says he is even surprised by the media resonance that this dish has had. “My idea was to awaken in guests a memory that we all have as children.
The Chef's Vision
In short, if further confirmation were needed, Quadrio knows how to do it. He knows how to cook and has been able to make the most of the legends he has worked with. A pasta in bianco divides and makes Milan discuss: it is that of Portrait 1011, one of the signature dishes of Alberto Quadrio already presented at the vernissage of the new address where the ancient Archiepiscopal Seminary comes back to life. The debate has heated up in recent days, in particular due to the price of the dish: 26 euros à la carte. So far the chronicle. Obligatory warning: the concept of pasta in bianco is not a fixed dogma (considering, in the strictest sense, only pasta with butter or oil, not even these two ingredients are present in the pasta of 1011 on which the debate of recent days). Instead, by widening the field of action, here are many more possibilities.
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Beyond the Basics: Other Milanese Interpretations
The article then delves into other interpretations of pasta in bianco found in Milan, showcasing the diversity and creativity within this seemingly simple dish.
- Pasta al Burro at Locale: This restaurant offers an updated take on the traditional dish, using fresh paccheri pasta made with semola and free-range eggs. The pasta is cooked in water and dressed with clarified butter, whipped by hand in ice and flavored with herbs. It's finished with raspadura lodigiana cheese and the cream of butter.
- Cacio e Pepe by Sara Preceruti: This chef presents her own version of cacio e pepe, incorporating seasonal ingredients and balancing the flavors with a sweet chutney. The dish features homemade spaghetti and puffed quinoa for a mix of textures.
- Quadrio's Inspiration: Alberto Quadrio's "La mia idea di pasta in bianco" at Portrait is inspired by his childhood memories of his grandmother's cooking. He uses Parmesan Reggiano scraps to create a dish that evokes a sense of nostalgia and pure flavors.
- Olio, Aglio e Peperoncino at Stendhal: This restaurant offers a simple yet popular version of pasta in bianco with oil, garlic, and chili pepper. The dish is made with De Cecco whole wheat pasta and is a favorite among both tourists and regulars.
- Autem's Innovative Approach: Luca Natalini, soon to open Autem, considers pasta in bianco a challenging dish. He uses a preparation with plum vermouth, rice vinegar, and burnt laurel to create a spaghetti dish with a surprising depth of flavor.
Pasta: A Universal Language
Pasta is a food that connects people around the world, transcending cultures and borders. Its versatility and adaptability have made it a staple in countless cuisines.
Iconic Pasta Dishes: A Culinary Journey
The article then embarks on a journey through other iconic pasta dishes, highlighting the creativity and innovation of Italian chefs:
- "Quattro Paste" by Gualtiero Marchesi: A tribute to Andy Warhol's Marilyn Monroe series, this dish features four different pasta preparations, showcasing Marchesi's playful approach to cuisine.
- Paccheri alla Vittorio by the Cerea Family: Inspired by Fettuccine Alfredo, this dish features paccheri pasta with three types of tomato sauce, prepared with a theatrical flair.
- Spaghetti al Pomodoro by Niko Romito: This dish uses "invisible tomato," with the pasta dressed in tomato water for a concentrated tomato flavor.
- Tortelli di Zucca by Nadia Santini: A classic dish of the Mantua region, these pumpkin-filled tortelli are a testament to Santini's dedication to local traditions.
- Spaghetto Estivo by Antonia Klugmann: This summer pasta dish incorporates fruit, showcasing the versatility of pasta and the unexpected combinations that can be achieved.
- Carbonara by Alessandro Piperò: A signature dish at Pipero in Rome, this carbonara uses mezze maniche pasta and is known for its distinctive appearance and rich flavor.
- Pastina al Formaggino by Giuseppe Iannotti: This playful dish features pastina pasta with a "formaggino" cheese made from mozzarella whey and cream.
- Pasta dedicated to Hilde Soliani by Mauro Uliassi: A dish dedicated to the creator of perfumes Hilde Soliani.
- Pasta with baccalà broth and calamari by Karime Lopez: A sophisticated dish featuring ditalini pasta with cod broth and squid, garnished with vegetable spheres.