Spaghetti all'assassina, a dish synonymous with Bari, Puglia, is more than just a pasta dish; it's a culinary experience steeped in history, tradition, and a touch of daring. Its name, intriguing and somewhat ominous, hints at the fiery flavors and unique cooking method that sets it apart. This article delves into the heart of this iconic dish, exploring its origins, the authentic recipe, variations, and the best places to savor it in Bari.
Origins: A Tale of Innovation and Resourcefulness
The origins of Spaghetti all'assassina are shrouded in a captivating narrative, tracing back to the late 1960s in the heart of Bari. Felice Giovine, a historian of Puglian cuisine, places its birth at the restaurant "Al Sorso Preferito." Enzo Francavilla, the inventive mind behind the dish, recounted the story of its creation. Faced with a request from a Neapolitan couple for a dish "they had never eaten before" and limited ingredients, Francavilla looked around his kitchen. He saw a "head of garlic," tomatoes, chili peppers, and "spaghetti winking at him." Thus, the Spaghetti all'Assassina were born.
Francavilla's innovative approach involved "burning the garlic in the iron pan, along with oil and chili pepper." He didn't just sauté it; he burned it and then removed it. Into the boiling oil, he poured raw tomatoes, actually peeled tomatoes crushed by hand, creating a burst of flavor. Covering the pan to trap the smoke, he infused the spaghetti with a unique smoky taste. He parboiled vermicelli, then transferred them to the pan with the tomato sauce to finish cooking, constantly stirring and adding more crushed raw tomatoes if needed. The dish was then tasted, seasoned, and given a final touch of browning, before being "polished" with a little oil.
The Authentic Recipe: A Step-by-Step Guide
While numerous interpretations of Spaghetti all'assassina exist, the authentic recipe, as passed down by Enzo Francavilla, remains the gold standard. This recipe emphasizes simplicity, quality ingredients, and a unique cooking technique.
Ingredients:
- Spaghetti or vermicelli
- Peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand
- Garlic
- Chili pepper
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Salt
Preparation:
- Prepare the Tomato Sauce: In a bowl, prepare the peeled tomatoes crushed by hand and season with salt.
- Infuse the Oil: In an iron pan, add abundant oil, chili pepper, and garlic cloves. Burn the garlic to infuse the oil, then remove the garlic.
- Create the "Fire": With a quick movement, pour the crushed peeled tomatoes into the hot oil. The oil will ignite, so immediately cover the pan to extinguish the flame and trap the smoky aroma.
- Cook the Pasta: Boil the vermicelli in salted water. Remove them when they are pliable and transfer them to the pan with the tomato sauce to finish cooking. Do not break the spaghetti.
- Marry the Flavors: Stir the spaghetti over medium heat to allow them to absorb the sauce. If needed, add more raw crushed tomatoes. The sauce will slowly caramelize and coat the spaghetti.
- The Final Touch: When the pasta is creamy and the sauce has thickened, wait until the spaghetti are lightly toasted. Before removing from the heat, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.
The true Assassina should be toasted, but not burnt. It should have a smoky flavor, with the sauce a cream that envelops the pasta. The spaghetti should "crunch" slightly and be spicy.
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Debunking Myths and Misconceptions
Francavilla debunked the myth that the dish was created to make patrons thirsty and sell more wine, even advising them to drink only at the end of the meal. The original recipe doesn't involve the "risottatura" or toasting of the pasta, techniques popularized by the Accademia dell'Assassina. The food writer Ornella Mirelli was among the first to note the absence of "risottatura" in the original recipe.
Furthermore, the authentic recipe eschews ingredients like tomato paste or diluted tomato paste called "tomato broth". True broth is made by simmering ingredients to transfer the flavours. Tostatura, essential in risotto, can damage pasta by vitrifying its structure.
The Accademia dell'Assassina: Guardians of Tradition
The Accademia dell'Assassina, along with its counter-academy, plays a significant role in preserving and promoting Spaghetti all'assassina. These groups of enthusiasts and experts are committed to honoring the dish through monthly gatherings centered around sharing and conviviality. They ardently advocate using a black iron pan, seasoned and never washed, as the traditional and essential tool for preparing Assassina.
Accademia's Codified Recipe:
Ingredients for 4 people:
- 320g vermicelli or spaghetti
- 400g tomato puree
- Tomato paste
- Oil
- Garlic
- Sugar
- Chili pepper to taste
The Accademia recommends using pasta with low starch content. The recipe requires high heat.
Procedure:
- Prepare a broth with water, 300 grams of tomato puree, tomato paste, and salt.
- In the iron pan, add 100 ml of oil, three garlic cloves, and chili pepper.
- Brown the garlic, then add a glass of tomato puree. Add a teaspoon of sugar to correct acidity.
- Add the raw spaghetti to the pan, ensuring the pasta touches the sauce.
- Pour two ladles of tomato broth into the pan.
- Let the liquid evaporate, then repeat the process, adding more tomato liquid.
- Continue until the spaghetti is cooked.
Variations: A Playful Twist on a Classic
While tradition holds strong in Bari, some chefs and home cooks have dared to experiment with Spaghetti all'assassina, creating intriguing variations. Massimo Dell'Erba, for instance, has created Assassina di Mare, incorporating seafood like squid and shrimp, and Assassina with fried olives.
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Sandro Romano's Spaghetti focaccia is a non-spicy version with the aromas of focaccia barese, featuring oven-baked tomatoes with olives and oregano.
Where to Taste the Authentic Assassina in Bari
The Accademia conducts patrols of Bari's restaurants, acknowledging that the quality of Assassina can vary depending on the establishment and the number of diners. The dish's variability makes it essential to try it multiple times in different places.
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