The torta fritta, also known as gnocco fritto, crescentina, chizza, or chisulein depending on the area, is a typical dish from Parma, Emilia-Romagna, that pairs perfectly with local cured meats, cheeses, and wines. This fried dough, simple in its ingredients yet rich in flavor, is a beloved culinary tradition in the region. It's perfect as an appetizer, a main course, or an aperitivo, especially when accompanied by a chilled glass of Lambrusco di Parma.
Origins and History
The origins of torta fritta can be traced back to the Lombard period, starting in 568 AD. The Lombards introduced the use of lard (strutto) in cooking, which remains a key ingredient for authentic torta fritta. Lard is ideal for frying because it can reach high temperatures without producing harmful substances, resulting in a lighter and less greasy product due to its quick and uniform frying.
A written recipe resembling the modern torta fritta appeared in 1659 in Carlo Nascia's book, "Li quattro banchetti per le quattro stagioni dell’anno." Nascia, a cook at the court of Ranuccio Farnese, Duke of Parma, described "pasta a vento" (wind pastry), highlighting its puffed-up and thin nature. Torta fritta then became a staple, particularly for farming families, due to its inexpensive and simple ingredients.
Historically, torta fritta was enjoyed as a dessert. Farming families would sprinkle it with powdered sugar and serve it at the end of meals. Over time, it transitioned into a savory dish, famously paired with cured meats, solidifying its place as a quintessential Emilian dish. Today, torta fritta is recognized as a traditional regional food product of Emilia-Romagna and a popular street food.
What is "Lo" or "Il" Gnocco Fritto?
According to Stefano Corghi, in Modena, it’s strictly “il” gnocco fritto. This iconic Emilian street food has different names, depending on the area. Torta fritta, crescentina, pinzino, chisulèn are all ways to refer to the same recipe: strips of fried dough served as an appetizer with cheeses and cured meats.
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Traditional Recipe
The recipe for torta fritta is deceptively simple, requiring just a few basic ingredients. The key to its deliciousness lies in the frying process, traditionally done in lard.
Ingredients for 4-6 people:
- 250g white flour
- 15g brewer’s yeast
- 30g lard or oil
- 1 tablespoon salt
- 1/8 liter lukewarm water (12 tablespoons)
- Lard or oil for frying
Alternative Recipe
- 500 g flour 0
- 200 g water, approximately
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2 tablespoons lard (or extra virgin olive oil)
- 1 teaspoon dry brewer’s yeast (or 8 g fresh brewer’s yeast) - optional
- Oil (or lard) for frying
Optional Ingredients
- Half a glass of warm milk can be added to make the dough softer or richer.
Preparation:
- Prepare the Dough: Sift the flour onto a work surface, creating a well in the center. Add the salt, lard (or oil), and yeast dissolved in lukewarm water.
- Knead the Dough: Mix the ingredients well, kneading for an extended period. The dough should be smooth and elastic.
- Let it Rise (if using yeast): Cover the dough with a cloth and let it rise in a warm place for about an hour. If not using yeast, skip this step.
- Alternative "Grandma's Tip": substitute the water and any milk with sparkling water. This will make the dough softer and easier to digest when fried.
- Roll Out the Dough: Roll the dough out to a thickness of about 3 millimeters using a rolling pin or pasta machine.
- Cut the Dough: Cut the dough into diamond shapes using a pasta cutter.
- Fry the Dough: Heat lard or oil in a deep pan. Fry the dough pieces in small batches until golden brown and puffed up, turning them gently with a slotted spoon.
- Drain and Serve: Remove the fried torta fritta from the pan and place them on a plate lined with paper towels to drain excess oil. Sprinkle with fine salt and serve hot with cured meats and soft cheeses.
Tips for Success:
- Use Lard: While oil can be used, lard provides the most authentic flavor.
- Roll the Dough Thin: The dough should be rolled thinly for the best texture.
- Rest the Dough: Allowing the dough to rest is essential for achieving the characteristic "cushion" effect. Let it rise covered with plastic wrap at room temperature if it’s hot, otherwise in the oven off with the light on until it doubles in volume and many bubbles form on the surface.
- Second Rising (Optional): For a more fragrant and digestible product, after the second rising, you can turn the dough over, form a ball and let it mature in the refrigerator for 12 - 48 hours.
Variations
Every family, even within the same city, has its own secret recipe passed down through generations. If you want to make the dough softer or richer, you can add half a glass of warm milk.
How to Serve and Enjoy
Torta fritta is best served hot, accompanied by a variety of local cured meats like prosciutto, salami, and mortadella, along with soft cheeses such as squacquerone. It pairs wonderfully with a glass of Lambrusco di Parma.
It is also good the day after. In Emilia, torta fritta is even eaten for breakfast, spread with jam or on its own with coffee.
Gnocco Fritto Without Lard
If you prefer to avoid lard, you can use extra virgin olive oil for a more aromatic flavor, or butter (softened) for a buttery taste and a slightly softer texture.
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Storage
Gnocco fritto is best consumed fresh, within 5-6 hours, or up to 24 hours. If you anticipate leftovers, you can freeze half of the dough for up to 6 months.
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