Scrippelle Fritte Pugliesi: A Culinary Journey into Southern Italy's Fried Delights

Scrippelle fritte, known as pettole in Puglia, are a staple of the culinary tradition of Puglia and Basilicata. These soft, leavened dough fritters, golden and crispy on the outside and incredibly soft and light on the inside, are a true delight. Their preparation is a ritual, especially linked to the Christmas holidays, but now enjoyed at any time of the year.

Origins and Traditions

The origins of pettole are shrouded in legend. It is said that in Taranto, in 1210, a woman, distracted by the preaching of St. Francis of Assisi, forgot the bread dough which rose out of all proportion. To avoid throwing it away, she decided to fry it in boiling oil, creating a delicacy that was much appreciated by the children in the neighbourhood.

As with all traditional recipes, the exact origins are uncertain. Some believe they were influenced by Greek or Turkish cuisine, while others suggest they were brought to Southern Italy by Albanian colonies. Some even suggest that the word "pettula" derives from the Albanian "petullat."

Regardless of their exact origin, pettole were once prepared during the Christmas holidays. Today, they can be found at any time of the year. In Lecce, for example, they are eaten on St. Martin's Day, which falls on November 11. In Taranto, it is customary to eat them on November 22, St. Cecilia's Day. For the feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8, they are found in Brindisi, while in Foggia they are a must on Christmas Eve.

The Basic Recipe: Ingredients and Preparation

Making pettole is easy. However, it is important to know a few little secrets to make them crispy on the outside, soft and airy on the inside. To achieve these results, simply pay attention to the dosage of the ingredients and, as with all leavened doughs, allow them time to rise and mature before frying.

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Here is a basic recipe for making pettole at home:

Ingredients (for 4-5 people, about 50 pettole):

  • 500 gr. of type 0 or 00 flour (w 240-260)
  • 500 gr. of cold water (400+100)
  • 5 gr of fresh brewer's yeast, or 1.5 gr. of dry brewer's yeast
  • 10 gr. of salt
  • 2 tablespoons of EVO oil
  • Seed oil for frying
  • Granulated sugar (optional)

Preparation:

  1. Dissolve the yeast in 400 gr. of water (80% of the total water).
  2. In a large bowl, mix the 400 gr. of water+yeast with all the flour, until you get a rough gluten network.
  3. Gradually add the remaining water (100 gr.), until you get a rather liquid mixture that is still able to form the gluten network. You may not need to add all the water, so if you are happy with the consistency and have some water left, you can safely stop adding it. It may also happen that you need more, but I advise you not to go beyond 500 gr. of total water.
  4. Add the salt to the dough and mix vigorously with a spoon or with your hands to form a smooth batter.
  5. Let rise for 6-8 hours at room temperature, the dough should more than double in volume (almost triple) and many small bubbles should form on the surface. It will be ready when it starts to collapse in the center.
  6. Once leavening/maturation has taken place, bring abundant seed oil to 170-180°C in a large and preferably deep pot and begin to fry the batter using a slightly damp steel spoon. Portion about half a spoonful of dough at a time and gently slide it into the oil, using a finger. The pettole should have irregular shapes.
  7. Fry for 3 minutes until golden brown.
  8. Drain the pettole and eat them hot. If you want, you can pass them in the granulated sugar.

Variations and Flavors

The beauty of pettole lies in their incredible versatility. They can be enjoyed in both sweet and savory versions, adapting to different tastes and occasions.

Sweet Pettole

  • Sugar: The most classic and beloved version is simply sprinkled with granulated or icing sugar, just taken out of the oil.
  • Honey: Another popular option is to dip the hot pettole in honey, for a sweet and fragrant treat.

Savory Pettole

  • Anchovies: The pittule can be enriched with pieces of salted anchovies inside the dough before frying.
  • Olives: A classic variation is to add chopped green or black olives to the dough, for a Mediterranean flavor.
  • Dried Tomatoes: For a richer and more intense flavor, you can add sun-dried tomatoes, cut into small pieces.

To prepare homemade pettole in a savory version, simply add the chosen ingredients to the basic dough, mixing gently with a hand or a spoon.

Tips and Tricks for Perfect Pettole

  • Flour: The original recipe for pettole pugliesi calls for the use of type 00 flour. Type 00 flour is ideal because it has a low gluten content, which helps to obtain a very soft and light dough. The use of other flours, such as wholemeal flour, can alter the consistency, making the pettole more compact.
  • Yeast: For those who do not have the possibility to use fresh brewer's yeast, the pettole recipe can be easily adapted with dry yeast, using the proportions indicated on the package (usually 1/3 of the weight of the fresh yeast).
  • Temperature: The ideal oil temperature for frying is around 170-180°C. If the oil is too hot, the pettole will burn on the outside and remain raw on the inside. If the oil is not hot enough, the pettole will absorb too much oil and be greasy.
  • Shape: The traditional shape of pettole is irregular. To form them, simply take a small portion of dough with your fingers and drop it into the hot oil.
  • Serving: Pettole are best enjoyed hot, freshly drained from the oil.

Pettole in Different Areas of Puglia

Pettole are a tradition that extends throughout the region, and therefore also to Bari and its province. The "pettole baresi" are simply the local version of this specialty, which does not differ substantially from the basic recipe. The preparation and ingredients remain the same, but the name may vary slightly depending on the area.

Pettole vs. Frittelle: What's the Difference?

The term "frittelle" is very generic and refers to a wide range of preparations, sweet or savory, based on fried dough. Pettole are distinguished by their very soft and airy consistency, given by a high hydration dough and a long leavening, which makes them unique in their kind.

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