The "pizzonta abruzzese," also known as "pizza unta" or fried pizza from Abruzzo, represents an authentic symbol of the popular cuisine of the region. This article explores the rich history, preparation methods, and variations of this delightful street food, offering a comprehensive guide for those seeking to recreate this traditional dish.
The Essence of Pizzonta: Humble Origins and Regional Names
In Abruzzo, fried pizza goes by several names: "pizzondella," "pizzetta," and "pizz’onta." The most descriptive name, "pizza unta" (meaning "oily pizza" in the Pescara dialect), hints at its irresistible sponginess, a result of frying in generous amounts of olive oil, as tradition dictates, or in seed oil. This humble street food has ancient roots, originating as a simple dish prepared by Abruzzese housewives when pantry staples were scarce. By frying the dough instead of baking it in a wood-fired oven, they created a delicious focaccia that didn't require tomato sauce, cheese, or other elaborate toppings. Even today, some eateries and kiosks sell it sprinkled only with salt or sugar, a preferred way for many Abruzzesi to enjoy it at home.
The Unique Characteristics of Abruzzese Fried Pizza
The "pizzonta abruzzese" stands apart from other fried pizza variations found throughout Italy. It is not a fried dumpling ("gnocco fritto") or a simple fritter. Its unique preparation, dual texture (soft and crispy), characteristic "bubbles," and unmistakable flavor make it a distinct specialty. This delicacy is perfect as a snack, appetizer, or main course, and can be filled in various ways to suit every palate.
The Basic Recipe: Ingredients and Preparation
Here's a fundamental recipe to create your own "pizzonta abruzzese":
Ingredients:
- 500 g of 00 flour
- 300 ml of lukewarm water
- 10 g of fresh brewer's yeast
- 1 teaspoon of sugar
- 10 g of salt
- 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
- Seed oil for frying (as needed)
Instructions:
- Dissolve the fresh brewer's yeast and sugar in a portion of the lukewarm water. Let it rest for about 10 minutes until a light foam forms on the surface.
- In a large bowl, sift the flour and add the salt. Create a well in the center and pour in the dissolved yeast, the remaining water, and the extra virgin olive oil.
- Mix with a fork, then knead the dough by hand until it is smooth and elastic. If the dough is too sticky, add a little flour; if it is too dry, add a little water.
- Form the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a damp cloth or plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm, draft-free place for about 2 hours, or until the dough has doubled in volume.
- Once risen, divide the dough into 100g balls. Stretch each ball with your hands to form discs about 1 cm thick.
- In a large pan, heat plenty of seed oil to about 180°C. Fry the pizzas, one or two at a time, until they are golden brown and crispy on both sides.
Tips for Perfect Leavening and Frying
- Ensure the water is lukewarm, not hot, to avoid killing the yeast.
- Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free environment. An oven turned off with the light on is an excellent place for leavening.
- After the first leavening, handle the dough gently to avoid deflating it too much.
- Stretch the pizzas and let them rise for a few more minutes while waiting for the oil to reach temperature.
- Before starting to fry, prepare everything like an assembly line. Prepare the necessary equipment (ladle, tongs, pot with oil, plate with absorbent paper) and make sure to have the pieces to be fried ready on a tray.
- Always fry a few pieces at a time and never leave the frying oil without anything inside. In this way, with a few pieces you will allow the frying temperature to remain almost stable and you will be able to have light fries without oil burns.
- The frying temperature varies depending on the type of product you want to fry, but let's say that the range in which you will have to stay is 170°-180°. With a kitchen thermometer it is very simple to understand when the temperature is reached, if you do not have it, even just by looking at the oil you can adjust yourself. The temperature is moderate at about 160° if immersing a small piece of bread this will only sizzle around making small bubbles. You are around 170° instead if immersing a piece of bread this will sizzle more vigorously.
Variations and Gourmet Interpretations
While the basic recipe remains a beloved classic, the "pizzonta abruzzese" has inspired numerous variations and gourmet interpretations.
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- Sweet vs. Savory: Traditionally, "pizzonta" is enjoyed with just a sprinkle of salt. However, a sweeter version, dusted with sugar, is also popular.
- Fillings and Toppings: While the original "pizzonta" was simple, modern variations include fillings like tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil. It can also be served with a side of Abruzzese cured meats and cheeses, such as pecorino and "salame schiacciato aquilano" (a soft, fragrant salami from L'Aquila).
- Gourmet Versions: Chefs have elevated the "pizzonta" with gourmet toppings like pecorino cream, made with milk, butter, flour, and grated pecorino cheese.
The Role of "Sugna" (Lard) and Modern Oil Choices
Historically, "pizzonta" was fried in lard ("sugna"), which imparted a unique aroma and tenderness. While some still prefer this traditional method, most now use seed oil for its practicality and specific frying properties.
Serving and Enjoying Pizzonta
"Pizzonta" is best enjoyed hot and fresh, straight from the fryer. It is often served at festivals and celebrations, accompanied by "arrosticini" (grilled lamb skewers), another Abruzzese specialty. In some areas, it is sprinkled with fine salt; some prepare it like the "montanara", and at home it is immediately a party!
A Taste of Abruzzo: More Than Just a Recipe
The "pizzonta abruzzese" is more than just a recipe; it is a taste of Abruzzo's culinary heritage, a testament to the resourcefulness and simplicity of its people. Whether enjoyed plain or with gourmet toppings, this fried pizza offers a delightful and authentic experience. The smell of fried pizza can be felt from hundreds of meters away and like a truffle dog attracted by the loot, so you will head towards the pizzonte stall with only one idea in mind: "I will eat until I feel bad!" which then you will only need 3! And yes, 3 because you must know that the size of a "normal" Abruzzese pizzonta must have at least the diameter of a bicycle wheel! The pizzonta had to feed a traveler and a worker and therefore was not thought of in gourmet or mini versions, but had to be large and always accompanied by cured meats, local cheeses and the Abruzzese street food par excellence: arrosticini! There is no Abruzzese festival without arrosticini and pizzonta! There are many versions of pizzonte recipes on the net: some use boiled potatoes, some add milk, some fry in oil, some in lard, in short, it is a recipe that has no recipe 😀
A Recipe for Two with Gourmet Twist
This recipe makes approximately 3 large or 6 small pizzonte:
Ingredients:
- 300 g of 00 flour
- 150-180 g of water (at room temperature)
- 5 g of brewer's yeast
- 3.5 g of fine salt
- 1 teaspoon of sugar
- 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil
- Seed oil for frying
- Fine salt
Instructions:
- Knead all the ingredients in a large bowl or in a planetary mixer. Add the water gradually because depending on the type of flour there may be a different absorption (I used 160 g in the end).
- Let it rise in a bowl covered with plastic wrap until doubled (it must form nice bubbles).
- Take the dough again and break it into loaves of about 50-60 g each to make the classic pizzonte or smaller (25g) if you want to make them smaller.
- Let it rise again for another half hour.
- Heat the seed oil in a large frying pan.
- With your hands, widen the dough balls on a floured work surface, and spread them with your hands (you can also use a rolling pin).
- Fry a few pieces at a time, browning the pizzonte on both sides.
- Drain on absorbent paper or special paper for fried foods.
- Serve hot with the addition of sprinkled salt (or sugar in the sweet version).
Gourmet Pecorino Cream (for 8-10 small pizzonte):
- 150 ml of milk
- 10 g of butter
- 10 g of flour
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 100 g of grated semi-aged pecorino cheese
Instructions:
- In a saucepan, melt the butter over low heat, add the flour and mix quickly.
- Add the milk gradually and continue to stir.
- Cook until the cream thickens, add the grated pecorino cheese and finally adjust with salt and pepper to your liking.
- Serve the mini pizzonte with the pecorino cream, a generous grating of pecorino and freshly ground salt.
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