Spaghetti all'assassina, a dangerously delicious dish originating from Puglia, has gained immense popularity thanks to its starring role in Commissario Lolita Lobosco novels and films. This traditional Barese recipe, characterized by its unique pan-cooked preparation, offers a delightful blend of slightly burnt, crispy textures and irresistible flavors.
Origins and Evolution of the Recipe
The history of spaghetti all'assassina is intertwined with the culinary traditions of Bari. Enzo Francavilla, the original creator of this dish, recounts its invention as a response to a Neapolitan couple's request for a dish "they had never eaten before." With limited ingredients at his disposal, Francavilla ingeniously combined garlic, tomatoes, chili peppers, and spaghetti to create what would become a culinary sensation.
Francavilla's original method involved burning garlic in a cast-iron pan with oil and chili peppers. He then added crushed, raw peeled tomatoes, covering the pan to capture the smoky flavor. The spaghetti, pre-cooked to less than half done, were then added to the pan with the tomato sauce, continuously mixed, and finished with a touch of fresh tomatoes and olive oil. He emphasized that the dish should be enjoyed without drinking until the end, to fully savor the spicy experience.
Debunking Myths and Misconceptions
Over time, various interpretations and adaptations of spaghetti all'assassina have emerged, leading to some common misconceptions about the dish. Notably, the practice of "risottatura" (cooking the pasta like risotto by adding broth gradually) and toasting the pasta are not part of the original recipe. These techniques, popularized by the Accademia dell'Assassina, are considered deviations from Francavilla's authentic method.
Another misconception involves the use of tomato paste or diluted tomato paste as a "broth." True broth, in culinary terms, is a flavorful liquid derived from prolonged simmering of ingredients like meat, fish, or vegetables. The original assassina recipe calls for a simple sauce made with crushed peeled tomatoes.
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The Authentic Recipe: A Step-by-Step Guide
To recreate the true spaghetti all'assassina experience, follow this detailed recipe based on Enzo Francavilla's original method:
Ingredients:
- Spaghetti
- Garlic
- Chili pepper
- Peeled tomatoes
- Salt
- Olive oil
Instructions:
- Prepare the tomato sauce by crushing peeled tomatoes by hand and seasoning with salt.
- In a cast-iron pan, heat a generous amount of olive oil with chili peppers and garlic cloves. Burn the garlic, then remove it.
- Pour the crushed peeled tomatoes into the hot oil. Cover immediately to extinguish the flame and capture the smoky aroma.
- Cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water until they are pliable but still undercooked.
- Transfer the spaghetti to the pan with the tomato sauce and continue cooking over medium heat, stirring constantly.
- If the sauce becomes too dry, add more crushed raw tomatoes.
- Cook until the pasta is creamy, the sauce has thickened, and the spaghetti is slightly toasted but not burnt.
- Finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil before serving.
Key Elements for Success
- The Right Pan: A cast-iron pan (sartàscene) is ideal for achieving the desired smoky flavor and crispy texture. However, a non-stick pan can be used with careful attention to heat control.
- The Heat: Maintaining the right temperature is crucial. The garlic should be burnt, but the spaghetti should be toasted, not carbonized.
- The Sauce: The sauce should be thick and creamy, coating the spaghetti evenly.
- The Spice: Chili pepper is essential for the "assassina" kick. Adjust the amount to your preference.
Variations and Modern Interpretations
While the authentic recipe remains the gold standard, modern chefs and home cooks have introduced variations to spaghetti all'assassina. Some popular additions include:
- Stracciatella: Adding creamy stracciatella cheese to the finished dish provides a contrasting texture and richness.
- Fresh Tomatoes: Incorporating fresh tomatoes alongside peeled tomatoes can enhance the flavor and visual appeal.
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