"Spaghetti allo scarpariello" is more than just a pasta dish; it's a symbol of Neapolitan culinary heritage. Born in the vibrant heart of Naples, specifically the Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter), this dish embodies simplicity, resourcefulness, and the rich flavors of the region. Its history is intertwined with the lives of the "scarpari," the shoemakers of Naples, who ingeniously crafted this now-iconic pasta.
The Origins: A Shoemaker's Meal
The name "scarpariello" originates from "scarpari," the Neapolitan word for shoemakers. In the past, these artisans often received food in exchange for their services, rather than monetary payment. This exchange led to the creation of a dish that utilized whatever ingredients were readily available, such as leftover tomato sauce and various cheeses.
Legend has it that Monday was "scarpariello day," as it coincided with the shoemakers' day of rest. This resourceful dish was initially prepared using the leftover Sunday ragù, enriched with generous amounts of grated cheese, which the shoemakers received from customers unable to pay with money. Today, "scarpariello" is no longer considered a dish of recovery but stands out among the heart recipes of Neapolitan families and is a must in the menus of trattorias and pizzerias. Yes, because it can dress both pasta and pizza.
The Essence of Simplicity and Flavor
The beauty of "spaghetti allo scarpariello" lies in its simplicity. It requires few ingredients, yet delivers a burst of authentic flavors that capture the essence of Neapolitan cuisine. The key components are:
- Pasta: While spaghetti is a common choice, other pasta shapes like paccheri, mezzi paccheri, bucatini, penne, or mezzanelli are also popular.
- Tomatoes: Fresh or canned, various types of tomatoes can be used, including San Marzano, datterini, cherry, piennolo del Vesuvio, or Corbarino.
- Cheese: A generous combination of grated Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Romano is essential for the dish's creamy and savory character. Provolone or smoked scamorza can also be added for a more stringy texture.
- Garlic and Chili Pepper: These aromatics infuse the dish with a subtle heat and depth of flavor.
- Basil: Fresh basil leaves add a touch of freshness and fragrance.
- Olive Oil: Extra virgin olive oil is crucial for sautéing the garlic and chili pepper and for adding richness to the sauce.
The Original Recipe: A Step-by-Step Guide
While variations exist, the traditional recipe for "spaghetti allo scarpariello" involves the following steps:
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- Prepare the Sauce: In a large pan, heat extra virgin olive oil over medium heat. Add minced garlic and chili pepper (fresh or dried). Sauté until the garlic turns golden brown, then remove it from the pan.
- Add Tomatoes: Add the tomatoes to the pan, either fresh or canned. If using fresh tomatoes, chop them coarsely. Simmer the sauce over medium-low heat for about 15-20 minutes, or until it thickens slightly. Season with salt to taste.
- Cook the Pasta: While the sauce simmers, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente.
- Combine Pasta and Sauce: Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the pan with the tomato sauce. Toss to coat.
- Add Cheese and Basil: Remove the pan from the heat. Add grated Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Romano cheese. Toss vigorously until the cheese melts and creates a creamy sauce. If the sauce is too thick, add a little of the reserved pasta water to achieve the desired consistency. Stir in fresh basil leaves.
- Serve Immediately: Serve the "spaghetti allo scarpariello" immediately, garnished with additional grated cheese and fresh basil leaves.
Variations and Personal Touches
While the traditional recipe is cherished, variations abound, reflecting personal preferences and regional ingredients. Some common variations include:
- Pasta Shape: Experiment with different pasta shapes to find your favorite. Paccheri, mezzi paccheri, or mezzanelli are popular choices that hold the sauce well.
- Tomato Variety: Use different types of tomatoes depending on availability and taste. San Marzano tomatoes are prized for their intense flavor, while datterini tomatoes offer a sweeter profile.
- Cheese Combination: Adjust the ratio of Parmigiano Reggiano to Pecorino Romano to suit your taste. You can also add other cheeses like provolone or smoked scamorza for a different flavor and texture.
- Spice Level: Control the heat by adjusting the amount of chili pepper used.
- Adding a touch of sweetness: Some recipes include a pinch of sugar to balance the acidity of the tomatoes.
Tips for Perfection
To elevate your "spaghetti allo scarpariello" to its full potential, consider these tips:
- Use High-Quality Ingredients: The quality of the ingredients directly impacts the flavor of the dish. Use fresh, ripe tomatoes, good-quality cheese, and extra virgin olive oil.
- Cook Pasta Al Dente: Overcooked pasta will become mushy and lose its texture. Cook the pasta until it is al dente, meaning it should be firm to the bite.
- Reserve Pasta Water: The starchy water from cooking the pasta helps to create a creamy sauce. Reserve some of the water before draining the pasta and add it to the sauce as needed.
- Melt the Cheese Properly: Remove the pan from the heat before adding the cheese to prevent it from clumping or becoming stringy. Toss vigorously until the cheese melts and creates a smooth, creamy sauce.
- Serve Immediately: "Spaghetti allo scarpariello" is best enjoyed immediately while the sauce is still hot and creamy.
From Humble Origins to Culinary Icon
"Spaghetti allo scarpariello" has evolved from a simple meal for shoemakers to a beloved dish enjoyed by people around the world. Its enduring appeal lies in its simplicity, its ability to showcase fresh, high-quality ingredients, and its connection to the rich culinary traditions of Naples. Whether you're a seasoned cook or a novice in the kitchen, "spaghetti allo scarpariello" is a dish that is sure to delight your taste buds and transport you to the sun-drenched streets of Naples.
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