Spaghetti alla Nerano: A Vegan Twist on a Campania Classic

Spaghetti alla Nerano are a quintessential dish of the Campania region in Italy. More than just a recipe, it's an experience that encapsulates the authentic flavors of the Amalfi Coast, where each ingredient tells a story. Imagine the waves of the Tyrrhenian Sea caressing the coast, the aroma of fried zucchini mingling with the salty air, and the warmth of a small trattoria kitchen overlooking the Bay of Ieranto. This article explores the traditional spaghetti alla Nerano and offers a delicious vegan alternative, perfect for those seeking a lighter, plant-based version of this iconic dish.

The History of Spaghetti alla Nerano

The story of spaghetti alla Nerano begins in the small Trattoria di Maria Grazia in Nerano, overlooking the crystal-clear blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea. One evening in the 1950s, Prince Francesco Caravita di Sirignano, also known as Pupetto, accepted a challenge from his friends. He entered the kitchen intending to prepare something special for the guests, with the help of Maria Grazia and the other women present. According to Prelibata, Maria Grazia's niece, Esterina, was present in the kitchen that evening, learning the "trade" from her aunt. Today, Esterina, the only living witness of that famous evening, heads the Le Sirene restaurant, located near the historic trattoria.

Prince Pupetto was an icon of the Neapolitan Dolce Vita. With his brilliant personality and inclination to have fun, he perfectly represented the spirit of the time. Pupetto, who loved the high life and evenings with friends, did not miss the opportunity to improvise as a cook that evening in Nerano. His fame was not limited to the Amalfi Coast. Pupetto was also known to be one of the inspirations for the famous Totò. In particular, the character of Pupetto Turacciolo in the 1950 film "L'Imperatore di Capri," directed by Luigi Comencini, is inspired by the Prince of Sirignano and his eccentric and worldly lifestyle. As a curiosity, his epitaph reads, "He never did anything important, but he never did anything wrong."

In the 1950s, the original spaghetti alla Nerano recipe used simple cheeses, such as caciocavallo or a mixture of pecorino and Parmesan. However, over time, the recipe evolved, and Provolone del Monaco became the key ingredient for achieving the unmistakable creaminess that is now associated with the dish. Produced on the Monti Lattari and in the Sorrento Peninsula, Provolone del Monaco has a unique, slightly spicy flavor that perfectly balances the sweetness of the zucchini.

Today, spaghetti alla Nerano are known and loved internationally, but their success has roots dating back to the 1950s, when the dish was created in Maria Grazia's restaurant. After the economic boom and the Dolce Vita, the dish became popular along the entire Amalfi Coast, thanks to the patronage of worldly figures such as Prince Pupetto Caravita. In the 1960s and 1970s, the recipe spread among local trattorias and was passed down by word of mouth. The success of spaghetti alla Nerano grew further in the 1980s, with the introduction of Provolone del Monaco, and reached restaurants in big cities like Rome and Milan. In 2021, the dish experienced a new wave of popularity thanks to the program "Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy." Today, "alla Nerano" is not only synonymous with pasta, but it has become a concept that inspires dishes of all kinds with zucchini and cheese.

Leggi anche: Sapori Mediterranei in un piatto di pasta

Traditional Spaghetti alla Nerano Recipe

Here’s how to make the traditional Spaghetti alla Nerano:

Ingredients:

• Spaghetti
• Zucchini
• Provolone del Monaco (or Caciocavallo)
• Parmesan Cheese
• Pecorino Cheese
• Olive Oil
• Butter
• Fresh Basil
• Salt
• Pepper
• Garlic (optional)

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Zucchini: Wash and dry the zucchini, then cut them into thin slices (about 3mm thick).
2. Fry the Zucchini: Preheat olive oil in a frying pan and fry the zucchini until golden and crispy, taking care to keep them green. Let the zucchini cool down, avoiding placing them on paper towels to retain the oil.
3. Cook the Pasta: Cook the spaghetti in salted water until al dente.
4. Create the Sauce Base: In a large pan, prepare a sauce base with a little pasta water, butter, pepper, zucchini, and half of the grated cheese (Provolone del Monaco, Parmesan, and Pecorino).
5. Combine and Cream: Add the cooked pasta to the pan and stir until creamy, away from the heat. Add the rest of the cheese, fresh basil, pepper, and salt to taste.
6. Serve: Place the pasta in the middle of a plate, top with additional zucchini and cheese mixture, and garnish with freshly ground pepper.

A Vegan Twist: Spaghetti alla Nerano with Cashew Cream

For those seeking a vegan or lighter alternative, this recipe replaces the traditional cheeses with a creamy cashew-based sauce. This version captures the essence of the original dish while being entirely plant-based.

Ingredients:

• Spaghetti
• Zucchini
• Cashews (soaked)
• Nutritional Yeast
• Olive Oil
• Fresh Basil
• Salt
• Pepper
• Garlic (optional)

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Zucchini: Wash and dry the zucchini, then cut them into thin slices (about 3mm thick).
2. Fry the Zucchini: Preheat olive oil in a frying pan and fry the zucchini until golden and crispy, taking care to keep them green. Let the zucchini cool down, avoiding placing them on paper towels to retain the oil.
3. Prepare the Cashew Cream: Blend soaked cashews with water, nutritional yeast, salt, and pepper until smooth and creamy.
4. Cook the Pasta: Cook the spaghetti in salted water until al dente, reserving some pasta water.
5. Combine and Cream: In a large pan, combine the cooked pasta, zucchini, and cashew cream. Add pasta water as needed to achieve a creamy consistency. Stir in fresh basil, salt, and pepper to taste.
6. Serve: Place the pasta in the middle of a plate, top with additional zucchini and cashew cream mixture, and garnish with freshly ground pepper.

Variations and Modern Interpretations

The versatility of spaghetti alla Nerano has led to numerous variations and modern interpretations. Chefs around the world have put their own spin on this classic dish, incorporating different ingredients and techniques while staying true to the spirit of the original.

• Spaghetti alla Nerano by Alfonso Caputo: The chef of the Michelin-starred Taverna del Capitano in Marina del Cantone offers an elegant version of the dish.
• Risotto alla Nerano by Antonio Salvatore: Lucano, transplanted to the Principality of Monaco, Salvatore has transformed the Nerano into a risotto in three versions, with basil pesto, Provolone del Monaco, and zucchini.

Tips for Perfect Spaghetti alla Nerano

To ensure your spaghetti alla Nerano turns out perfectly, consider these tips:

• Use High-Quality Ingredients: The quality of the ingredients greatly affects the final taste of the dish. Opt for fresh zucchini, good quality cheese (or cashews for the vegan version), and extra virgin olive oil.
• Fry the Zucchini Properly: Frying the zucchini correctly is crucial for achieving the right texture and flavor. Make sure the oil is hot enough and don't overcrowd the pan.
• Cook the Pasta Al Dente: Cooking the pasta al dente ensures it holds its shape and texture when combined with the sauce.
• Reserve Pasta Water: Pasta water is essential for creating a creamy sauce. The starch in the water helps to bind the ingredients together.
• Grate Cheese Fresh: Grating the cheese fresh ensures it melts evenly and creates a smooth, creamy sauce.

Pairing Suggestions

Spaghetti alla Nerano, with its sweet, greasy, and rich flavor, pairs well with a Biancolella dell’Isola d’Ischia. This wine complements the dish's flavors without overpowering them.

Leggi anche: Frittata Napoletana di Spaghetti

Pasta “Almost” Nerano: A Northern Italian Interpretation

Even in the depths of Northern Italy, one can enjoy a delightful plate of Neapolitan cuisine. While finding Provolone del Monaco might be challenging, a good Provolone Valpadana DOP can be a worthy substitute. For a touch of Alto Adige, consider using Alpine basil, known for its fragrant and intense flavor.

Here’s a “northern” take on Spaghetti alla Nerano:

Ingredients:

• 180g Spaghetti (or other durum wheat pasta)
• 2 Zucchini
• 300ml Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 150g Provolone Valpadana DOP
• 75g Pecorino Romano
• 50ml Cooking Cream
• Fresh Alpine Basil
• Black Pepper to taste

Instructions:

1. Fry the Zucchini: Wash and dry the zucchini, then cut them into uniform rounds, about 2.5-3 mm thick, using a mandoline if necessary. Fry them in olive oil at 140°C, stirring gently to avoid breaking them, until they are light brown on both sides (about 15 minutes).
2. Infuse the Zucchini: Drain the zucchini from the oil, sprinkle with a little salt, and place them in a closed container while still hot, with some fresh, chopped Alpine basil, so they can absorb the aromas.
3. Prepare the Cheese Cream: Grate the Provolone and Pecorino. Heat the cream in a pan to about 60°C, then add the grated cheeses little by little, stirring continuously to melt them. This is the trickiest part, as you need to obtain a dense and homogeneous cream.
4. Combine: Keep the cheese cream warm, adding a little cooking water if necessary. Cook the pasta al dente. Pour the pasta, just drained, into the pan with the fried zucchini, stirring for one or two minutes until you get the desired creamy consistency.
5. Serve: Garnish with plenty of basil and freshly ground pepper.

Leggi anche: Ingredienti Spaghetti San Giuannid

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